How to Double Cleanse (and Whether You Really Need To)
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Not medical advice. This article shares general information only. It is not a substitute for advice from a doctor or dermatologist. Patch-test new products and talk to a professional about any skin, health or fitness concerns.
Double cleansing is one of the best-known habits from Korean skincare. You wash your face twice in the evening: first with an oil-based cleanser, then with a gentle water-based one.
It sounds like a lot of washing, but done gently it's an efficient way to remove sunscreen and makeup without scrubbing. Here's how it works, how to do it, and when one cleanse is enough.
Why two cleansers?
Sunscreen, long-wear makeup and the oil your skin makes all dissolve well in oil. Sweat, dirt and the remains of the first cleanser rinse away well with a water-based cleanser.
- Step 1, oil-based cleanser: a cleansing oil or cleansing balm loosens sunscreen, makeup and excess oil.
- Step 2, water-based cleanser: a gentle gel, cream or low-foam cleanser removes any oily residue and everyday grime.
The idea is that two gentle cleansers can do a better job than one harsh one.
How to double cleanse, step by step
- Start with dry hands and a dry face. Most cleansing oils and balms work best on dry skin.
- Massage the oil cleanser in. Use about one or two pumps of oil, or a small scoop of balm. Massage it over your face with your fingertips for 30 to 60 seconds, including around the hairline and jaw where sunscreen collects. Be gentle around the eyes.
- Emulsify. Wet your fingertips and keep massaging. Most cleansing oils turn milky. This helps them rinse away cleanly.
- Rinse with lukewarm water. Hot water can leave skin feeling tight and dry.
- Apply the water-based cleanser. Use a small amount of a gentle cleanser on damp skin and massage for about 30 seconds.
- Rinse and pat dry with a clean, soft towel.
- Continue your routine with toner and moisturizer while your skin is still slightly damp.
The American Academy of Dermatology's face-washing advice matches this gentle approach: use a gentle, non-abrasive cleanser, wet your face with lukewarm water, and apply cleanser with your fingertips rather than a washcloth or sponge (AAD: face washing 101).
Choosing the two cleansers
First cleanser options:
- Cleansing oil: a liquid oil with emulsifiers so it rinses off with water. Good for most skin types.
- Cleansing balm: a solid balm that melts on the skin. Easy to travel with and doesn't drip.
- Micellar water: not oil-based, but some people use it as a gentle first step for light makeup.
A cleansing balm or cleansing oil is the usual first-step product.
Second cleanser options:
- Gel cleansers often suit oily or combination skin.
- Cream or milky cleansers often suit dry or sensitive skin.
- Low-foam, "low-pH" cleansers are popular in K-beauty for feeling less stripping.
Whatever you choose, look for a gentle facial cleanser that leaves your skin feeling comfortable, not squeaky or tight.
Who benefits most from double cleansing?
- People who wear sunscreen every day, especially water-resistant formulas
- People who wear long-wear or waterproof makeup
- People with oily skin who like a thorough clean in the evening
Who might not need it
- If you don't wear makeup and use a light sunscreen, a single gentle cleanse in the evening may be enough.
- If your skin is very dry or sensitive, twice-daily double cleansing can be too much. Try a single cleanse with a cream cleanser, or double cleanse only on heavy-makeup days.
- In the morning, most people only need a quick gentle cleanse or a water rinse.
Signs you're over-cleansing include tightness, stinging, flaking or redness after washing. If that happens, cut back.
Does double cleansing help with breakouts?
It may help some people by removing sunscreen and makeup thoroughly, but it isn't a treatment for acne. For acne-prone skin, the AAD advises gently washing up to twice a day and after sweating, with a gentle, non-abrasive cleanser applied with your fingertips, because scrubbing can irritate the skin (AAD: acne skin care tips).
If you're prone to breakouts, look for oil cleansers that rinse off fully and labels that say non-comedogenic. If acne is persistent or painful, talk to a dermatologist.
Common mistakes
- Using the oil cleanser on wet skin. It slides around instead of dissolving makeup.
- Skipping the emulsifying step. It can leave an oily film.
- Scrubbing. Massage, don't scrub. Cleansing brushes and rough cloths can irritate.
- Using a harsh second cleanser. The point is gentle cleansing. If your skin feels tight, switch to something milder.
- Leaving residue at the hairline. Rinse well around the edges of your face.
Fitting it into your routine
Double cleansing is step one of the evening Korean skincare routine. After cleansing, apply toner or a toner pad, then any essence or serum, then moisturizer.
Frequently asked questions
Can I double cleanse in the morning?
Most people don't need to. A gentle single cleanse or a rinse with water is usually enough in the morning.
Can I use coconut oil or olive oil as a first cleanser?
Kitchen oils don't contain emulsifiers, so they're harder to rinse off and can leave residue. A cleansing oil or balm made for the face rinses away more easily.
Is micellar water enough on its own?
For light makeup, some people find it enough. For water-resistant sunscreen or heavy makeup, follow it with a gentle cleanser.
How long should I massage the oil cleanser?
About 30 to 60 seconds is usually enough to dissolve sunscreen and makeup.
Sources
- American Academy of Dermatology: Face washing 101
- American Academy of Dermatology: Acne: tips for managing